Changing an automatic to a manual

To make matters worse, the genuine part number and its many changeups has long since been discontinued. On a brighter note, the reproduction aftermarket has tooled up with an exact replacement that both fits and works. Most parts dealers have a comprehensive big block clutch linkage kit available, and the pieces look and work just like the original see photos.

What about the other bits and pieces? For the most part, the remaining components are generally available. Heavy-duty accessory hardware such as blow-proof bell housings and adjustable bell housing pivot balls are available, and so are clutch forks and neutral safety switch assemblies.

What about pedals and the associated under-dash linkage? Restoration companies come to the rescue here as well. Many automotive restoration parts dealers also offer a complete, stock replacement under-dash pedal assembly. To install them, the stock automatic pedal must be removed from the steering column support and the stick shift pieces installed.

The automatic bits are replaced by the stick shift counterparts in reverse order. You can also buy brake pedal pads with the correct disc brake logo. Some cars came with bright, stainless pedal trim. It stops the pad from sliding on the pedal. The nature of the vintage "X" bodies Novas as "the car for all people" proved to be more than influential in the transmission department. Because the basic vehicles were seen as anything from pedestrian econo-sedans to all-out racers, the availability of transmissions was prolific, to say the least.

And the same actually applied to the "F" bodied Camaro. Everything from the Powerglide to race-inspired "rock crusher" Muncies occupied the space under the floorboards. Because of this, physically swapping gearboxes in a Nova or a Camaro is an easy task. Many non-stock combinations are possible.

Examples include Powerglides behind big blocks, Muncies behind straight sixes, Turbo-hydro-backed V6s and a host of others. It was almost like Chevrolet engineers envisioned the whole swapping scheme: Chevy included a number of different cross members and a series of holes drilled into the front subframe just for this purpose.

The basic cross members can be broken down into three groups: the Turbohydramatic examples, non-TH examples and big block versions. The good news is these pieces are readily available from the aftermarket. And so are all of the other transmission cross members. In the end, you have to be sure to use the correct cross member for the appropriate transmission. Remove the bolts in the drive shaft yoke using a wrench. Remove the drive shaft. Place the floor jack under the transmission pan and remove the bolts in the cross member and transmission mount using the ratchet and socket.

Lift the transmission and remove the crossmember. Lower the transmission and remove the transmission cooler lines with a wrench. Remove the bolts in the bellhousing with a ratchet and socket and remove the transmission. Remove the flexplate using the ratchet and a socket. Install the new flywheel and tighten the bolts. Install the new clutch kit using the alignment tool that comes with the kit.

Tighten the bolts securely. Install a new throwout bearing in the new bell housing and bolt up the new bell housing. Bolt the new manual transmission to the bellhousing by inserting the bolts and tightening them with a ratchet and socket. Plug in all electrical connectors. Install the transmission mount and tighten the bolts with the ratchet and socket.

Place the floor jack under the transmission and raise it to install the crossmember. Lower the transmission onto the crossmember and insert the bolts and tighten. Install the driveshaft and bolts and tighten with a wrench. Pass the linkage or cable through the firewall and attach it to the clutch pedal.

If it is a hydraulic clutch, attach the master cylinder to the clutch pedal and the firewall. Bolt the transmission-end of the linkage or cable to the clutch release rod on the transmission. If it is a hydraulic system, attach the slave cylinder to the transmission. Install the shift lever on the transmission by putting the nut on the shaft end and tightening it with a wrench. With your hand, put the shift lever on the transmission in the neutral position.

When it is in neutral the drive shaft can be turned by hand. Remove the top cover plate on the transmission if it is a top loader. Bolt up the shift lever and cover. Cut a hole in the floor for the shifter, if it is a side mount shifter. Bring the shifter and stick the handle up through the floor and insert the bolts through the side of the shifter holding it to the transmission.

Tighten the bolts with a ratchet and a socket. Bolt the linkage from the shifter to the shift levers on the transmission. Make sure the shift and the transmission shift levers are both in neutral. Don Bowman has been writing for various websites and several online magazines since